I'm buying with a purpose though. I know I haven't done much sewing of late, but there's two specific types of things missing from my wardrobe that I can't seem to find in town: 1) a coat that's not overly expensive (I'm looking at you, Canada Goose) and/or ill-fitted, and 2) pants. PANTS omg. I have one pair of jeans that I sort of like, and another pair that are okay so long as I'm wearing a long top, and that's not doing it! I have other things I want to make, but I think I need to focus on those two.
Let's start off with number 1: Winter Coat
The fabric on the left is for the body, a heavyweight steel grey melton fabric that's 80% wool and 20% nylon. The lining is on the left, and is a 100% nylon "charcoal grey" bemberg. I'll probably find some sort of thermal layer for in between, because these two won't cut it alone up here.
I know it's a boring colour palette, but that just means I get to play more with colourful knitted accessories!
And then there's the dreaded 2) PANTS.
This is entirely Gillian and her polka dot pants fault. I love the pair she made, and since I like narrow legged pants (but NOT skinny pants), I think it'll be pattern to try. It's Style Arc's Elle pants, and even though I've never tried this company before, they look pretty simple to put together and Gillian recommended them. If I'm going to be playing with fit, I might as well try an easy pattern!
The recommended fabric is sort of annoying though - they want at least 30% stretch, which is not easy to find. Hence the fabric.com order! I found two pieces that I'll try, including an indigo super stretch denim that's 96% cotton, 4% spandex, and 25% stretch on the left. I hope it'll be enough! The fabric on the right is called Chicago Jacquard Stretch Denim Pindot Midnight Blue/Black, and is made up of 65% rayon, 32% polyester, and 3% spandex. I'm less certain about that one, but who could resist the look of it, and it has 40% stretch. They're both medium/heavy weight, so I'm hoping they'll be alright for this.
I'm really good at planning, and not so good at actually sewing things, so we'll see. But I've already ordered the fabric so maybe!
I mentioned above that I'm afraid of ordering fabric online. I'm more afraid of sewing pants. SOMEONE HOLD MY HAND PLEASE.
I haven't ordered fabric online so I can't provide much support in that department, but I'm happy to cheer on your coat-and-pants-making-venture, due in no small part to the fact that it will allow me to avoid actually sewing things as well. (I started a sewing project that I want to do in order to avoid starting a knitting project that I want to do, both of which are currently cluttering up my dining room table. Like you, I also seem to be better at planning--and buying--than execution.) For the coat, what made you choose the Grainline Cascade Duffle Coat over the Colette Albion? I've wondered this a few times as I've seen other bloggers make up the Cascade, even though the Albion came out much earlier and had a sewalong for support. If you decide to line it with thermal fabric, I'd love to hear a review once it's completed about how effective the thermal material is and how you went about choosing it. For the pants, I really dig the pin dot, and if Gillian's makes are any indication then the Elle should be a great choice. Can't wait to see how things shape up!
ReplyDeleteI didn't really consider Albion at all, to be honest. I'm interested in Cascade because of Suzy's version (even if she modified the crap out of it), and a few other version's I've seen. Honestly, I didn't consider Albion as a women's coat, and considering my curves and the issues I have with men's clothing, I'd probably avoid it. I have narrow shoulders, a 4 inch difference between high and full bust, and large hips - almost the exact opposite to how men's wear is designed. I know I know, they're both boxy garments. But I want the shoulders to fit properly and I know how to do it with a women's pattern. Plus often men's garments have deeper armholes, which I don't need and will mess with the full bust measurement.
DeleteIf I were less curvy, I could probably make Albion work for me, but there's just too many uncertainties considering that I don't know how they designed the coat.
Don't know if any of that makes sense, but basically I'd rather start with a pattern designed specifically for a woman's body, and not have to dick around with a pattern designed with men in mind. Not for this. :)
I'm kind of stoked for those pants, btw!
That does make sense. I guess I hadn't thought of it exclusively as a men's pattern, since they modeled it on both men and women and blogged about it having unisex potential. But I agree that even though it's boxy, the proportions still matter. Fitting can be tricky enough without making it more complicated by starting with a pattern designed for a completely different body shape. (It's why I follow Sewaholic but will probably never buy patterns from them.)
DeleteWhy don't you think you'd buy patterns from Sewaholic? I've been admiring a few of her patterns, actually, but it's hard to justify when I have so many patterns. :P
DeleteAlthough really, she's got some good staples. I really should do a big purge of my patterns and see what I'll actually use. Most of my patterns are from a long time ago when I thought I wanted fancier clothing. Now I'm focusing on basic staples for my wardrobe that I'll actually wear.
Sewaholic is designed for those who are curvy, with narrow or average waists and large hips (compared to the "typical" hourglass). I'm the opposite of curvy: I have a straight waist that's 1-2 sizes larger than my hips on a standard size chart. I already straighten out most of the waist-to-hip curve on Big 4 patterns; I imagine the change would be even more drastic on Sewaholic patterns. While not a terribly difficult change, and probably not even that big of a deal on a top, I imagine it could spoil the effect of a dress and could easily make pants-fitting a nightmare. So while I wouldn't rule out Sewaholic entirely, I imagine I'd be better off starting with a pattern with a block closer to my shape. But hey, I'm no expert, and I'm definitely open to persuasion when it comes to pattern purchasing!
DeleteInteresting! Heh, looks like we're body opposites! :) I don't think I could ever make any of their dresses, just because I'm generally more of an hour-glass with a larger than "average" bust. Looking at their measurements definitely eliminated those dresses, mostly because I knew it'd be a nightmare to fit.
DeleteI'm looking at some of their bottoms though, just because I am hippy, but my waist measurements are much larger than what they call for. That's not as hard of a fix though.
I'm the complete opposite of the Sewaholic shape and I've had great results with some of her patterns---it just depends on the style. For the full skirted dresses hip size doesn't matter. For the one hip-fitted pattern, I just graded from the hip size I fit to the waist size I fit and it worked perfectly. I would be a little scared of a pants pattern though. :)
DeleteThose are some good points, Tanit-Isis! I hate fitting the upper body, and mine doesn't match the typical pear shape at all so I've been a little hesitant. I am pretty stoked to try her pants patterns though, just because YAY HIPS! lol
DeleteI just have to get over this irrational fear of pants...
I don't do it but then I am so lucky to live in a city ith fantastic shops. Oops, I have done it, I lied, Once, recently! I am sure it ill be fine. Watch that jacket it looks quite squarely cut and you have luscious curves to negotiate!
ReplyDeleteAHA *jealous*. :D I don't mind a square cut right now, especially for a bulky winter jacket. But with the mods I'll have to do, it'll probably add some curves to it.
DeleteOoh, good luck! I've never bought fabric online, so I can't help you there, but it looks like you have some exciting projects lined up! I've got some sewing planned for this weekend too, but just a gathered skirt-nothing quite this adventurous :)
ReplyDeleteOoo yay! I hope you'll post about your skirt!
DeleteWe just woke up to a couple inches of snow today. I'm envious of your skirt ambitions, they definitely aren't happening up here! WHERE IS MY FABRIC SO I CAN SEW A WINTER JACKET CUZ IT'S HERE.
I buy fabric online. Even though shipoing to New Zealand is usually very expensive. I am trying not to because our dollar is falling like a stone and we are soon going to be taxed 15% on online purchases (same as on real world ones). I love EmmaOneSock - not cheap but good quality - and if I lived in north america I would buy a lot from fabricmart. I've had great service from Rockywoods for outdoor fabrics. Do you read twoontwooff? Dawn lives in Alaska and loooves fabric.com.
ReplyDeleteYou have opened a can of worms! Whatever you do, don't get in the habit of checking their specials emails 'just in case'. It's the road to ruin and a massive stash . But maybe you have more self control than me. :-)
Hmm, might be less of a can of worms for me, because I just did the calculation, and between the shipping and the conversion to Canadian dollars, my $100 USD worth of fabric cost me $180 CAD. Won't be doing that again anytime soon!
DeleteThat doesn't even count the fact that I know I'm going to get nailed on taxes and who knows what else at Customs. I'm now deeply regretting this purchase. Those fabric better be worth it!
I buy online, but I tend to keep an open mind - sometimes the weight and colour of the fabric is not quite what you expect. Then I change my plans to accommodate the fabric - and that is why I have such a large stash and pattern collection. It sounds as though you have quite good descriptions of the fabric, so hopefully they are suitable.
ReplyDeleteLots of people like Style Arc pants - they are much closer to RTW sizing. I don't get on with them, because I don't fit RTW sizing at all. But you are a pear, and Aussies are mostly pears as well, so I think you may be okay. Just make them up first in something cheap and nasty - even polar fleece (then you will have some warm house pants). That way you won't ruin your good fabric. And as for technical skills for pants making - they are just two straight tubes with a waistband - not too difficult at all.
I'm hoping the fabric turns out close to what I'm picturing. I've paid a ridiculous amount for it, so here's to hoping! :D
DeleteI'm less concerned about the straight tubes and more concerned about the curvy part between those tubes! lol But good point, I need to stop psyching myself out about them.
I'm actually surprised you've gone this long without it! I hope it goes well. I've generally had good experiences except for the part where the shipping tends to double the price of everything (and the conversion to CAD of course. :P)
ReplyDeleteAfter making my coat (and wearing it for four Canadian winters, now, albeit not serious Yukon winters) I'd make three suggestions: find Thinsulate for their interlining, use a heavy, flannel-backed satin lining, not Bennett, and go for the longer length. (Ok, the last is probably my personal preference. ;) I find short winter coats never feel warm enough. ;) ) good luck!!!!
The shipping and conversion has mostly frightened me away, to be honest. Why pay that much more for fabric when I could just take that money go down to the fabric shop and buy EVEN MORE. I probably would've caved sooner, living up here, except that I haven't been sewing as much and we do have a fabric shop in town, even if she seems to be going more in a home deco direction. :(
DeleteOh but thanks for the suggestions! Especially the thinsulate. I thought our fabric shop had some (they used to), but she's not carrying it anymore. She did tell me to get her the name of it and she'd order some though, because of the fabrics she does carry, parka material is definitely one of them! You saved me trying to hunt down the fabric name. :)
DeleteI was considering the flannel-backed satin, but I went with the bemberg instead. I'm considering picking some up at our fabric shop, but I'm waffling. We'll see what the fabric looks like when it arrives.